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The Severn lifeboat I am building will have the R.N.L.I. fleet Number 17-21 which is the Newhaven lifeboat.

Named David and Elizabeth Acland.






The Hull
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The Hull 55" long 19" wide not small,even my carp have to check it out!!



Hull and wheel house
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If you want a hull and wheel house this is what you get,comes in a very big box.



Marking out the Hull
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Using Masking tape to mark out the hull,from a set of the real R.N.L.I. drawings I sent for



Holes for the prop shafts and rudders
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After the hull was marked out the holes were then drilled.



Rudders.
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As I had two large brass rudders in the workshop,I have used these and not the ones supplied,this was my choice.



Rudders made ready for fitting
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I over covered the brass with 2mm plastic cut to the same shape as the ones supplied.Ending up with a rudder 5mm thick with a sound brass sharft.I have also fitted inside the hull two blocks of 100mm long x 20mm thick to help with the rudder posts.
Sorted!!




Prop Shafts fitted with rudders.
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Both shafts fitted and rudders also in place but not fixed in yet,I have also fitt a lub tube to both the prop sharfts.



Bow Thruster
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It was now time to fit the bow thruster,this was maked out from the c-line to the bow.Note a new bow thruster has now been fitted, with a bigger tube size now works much better see Part 4 build.



Inside of the hull showing the bow thruster
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After glueing one bow thruster tube,I then fitted this inside the hull making sure it was level,then pushed the other tube through and glued this in place,then used body filler all round both tubes to make water tight.



Finished bow thruster
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With the body filler set ,I then cut back the tubes to about 2mm from the hull,I then filled any small gaps, ready for sanding down to the bow shape.



Inside of the hull to the stern
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You can see in this photo the two blocks of wood for the rudder tubes,plus the prop shafts with the lube tubes,and the a frame ends bent over ,which will be covered in body filler to make them water tight.



Bow Thruster Bulge
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Bow Thruster Bulge.


On the bow below the water line there is a bulge around the in-lets to the bow thruster.
This I have done by laminating two pieces of 2mm ply, drilled a hole in it for the bow thruster inlet, and then shaped then off as best I can on my band saw. I then fixed them to the hull with body filler, when this had set I sanded them down to make the finished shape. As the photos of what I have are not to clear on the real lifeboat, I have made them to as best as I can make out.









The outer Keels.
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The Two Outer Keels.

There are two outer keels that have to be fitted to the hull, one of my concerns was, and when the lifeboat is finished it is going to be quite heavy. I always use a set of lifting slings when I am putting my boats in or out of the water, the lifting point at the stern would be across both of the two outer keels, therefor these would need to be strong enough to take any side load when lifting the lifeboat in or out of the water.
I decided that the best way would be to fit six 3mm x 25mm SS screws per keel, I drilled six holes equally spaced along the top edge of the keels, then taped them out to 3mm thread.
Put in the six SS screws, marked the hull with the same position of the holes, then drilled thought the hull, I checked to see all was lined up, then put a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy on the top edge, and around the holes, push the keels in place, fitted the washers and nuts on the inside of the hull, and pulled them down tight.




Keels fitted.
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Keel Bolts
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After the epoxy had set ,I then covered the bolts will body filler,and left it to set,I have now tested the side movement on the outer keels and there is NONE.



The Wheel House
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Wheel House Roof./Fly bridge floor.


The wheel house molding comes with no roof, this is in the detail set which is made from 5mm perspex, after a bit of trimming of the molding making sure that the floor lays flat, it just slides in like a glove. I fitted two small blocks of wood at the control panel end of the floor, to keep the floor level.

I then started to sand down the front part of the fly bridge to take the fly bridge control panel, this takes a bit of time but now done it also fits like a glove. Now that this is in place, I will make up the two supports for the mast before I fit the floor in place permanently.




Fly Bridge Roof.
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Air in Take boxes
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The Two rear stern boxes,are also for the Air intake for the engines on the real lifeboat,I have now cut out part of the rear stern box hull up stand,as on the real lifeboat, this area is all flush with the deck.I will fill them in with some 2mm plasticard.



Windows.
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I have made up one of the 1/4 windows from the window kit,as I will soon be marking out the windows on the wheel house ,ready for cutting out.
The window kit on its own is fantastic,the detail is first class just like the real windows.Each window is made up of 5 items all from different size perspex.




Fly Bridge window Frame
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Fly Bridge Window Frame.

I have now trimmed down the top part of the flybrige ready to take the brass window frame, this comes as part of the detail set, all that is required is to cut the holding lugs off, file the sprue's off, and its ready to bend in to shape, just like that!!

And yes, it is that easy!
All I did was lay it out on a piece of glass I use to build on, as I know it is flat, I then used a small off cut of alloy u-shaped as a flat guide, and placed it on the fold line and bent the edges up.
After this was done I transferred it to the fly bridge and placed it on, bent it round, then held it in place was some masking tape, fitted first time. I will add the windscreen up rights later, as my next job will be to mark out the windows in the side and front of the wheelhouse, and cut them out.





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Window frame in place
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Mast Boxes
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Mast Boxes.

There are two mast boxes, which are made up from 3mm Perspex, one for each side of the wheelhouse. These again went together like a glove, I have now given them a light coat of plastic primer on the inside, and so they will show up better on the photos.
As soon as I have cut the holes out for the windows, I will then glue in place the wheelhouse floor, control panel, and the mast boxes.




Window Apertures.
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Wheelhouse window Apertures.

Time to cut out the window apertures; there are 5 no each side, plus 4 in the front and 1 small one in the rear, plus the door.
Working from the R.N.L.I. drawing I had, and looking at photos, I marked out the 2 sides first, when I had got my fore and aft lines in place, I then used the window frame D from the window kit to draw round, this gave me the right shape.

I then proceeded to cut them out. I first chain drilled small holes all the way round, the inside of my pencil line, I then used a small milling bit that came with my mini drill, this I then used the chase out from hole to hole, then changed to my small sanding drum, and sanded to my pencil line. I have left about .5mm under-size at this time, as I will fit each window when it has been made, and do any trimming to fit.

I cut out the front windows the same way, one thing I will say is make sure you have glasses, and a dust mask on, when cutting and sanding cos the fine fibers of glass get every were!!




Chain drilled
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Cleaned out
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Front Windows
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Rear Door and window
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I decided that I would cut out the rear door as I intend to be able to open and close it.



Wheelhouse side detail.
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Wheel House side Detail.


On each side of the lower part of the wheel house are all the vent boxes, these are made up from 1mm Perspex from the detail set, and ABS moldings which are glued to the backs of the Perspex.
This detail also has all the holes to take a large amount of the 1800 bolt heads, that are to be fitted when its all been painted!! Each panel also overhangs the side of the wheelhouse mounting, on the hull to deck molding.
When I had marked out were each side panel would fit, I then glued the ABS boxes on the back, I also have fitted the covers and opening lugs above each off the vents. (These being the four small squares you can see in the photo) there are four of these on each side of the wheel house, inside these there should be a white ball float, which on the real lifeboat blocks of the vents if the lifeboat rolls over. I will be fitting these later when the wheelhouse is painted from the inside.




Wheelhouse detail cut outs
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Side detail fitted ready for gluing.
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Front Fire Valve box
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Wheelhouse cabin floor, front fire valve box.


On the front of the wheelhouse at deck level, there is a fire hose output valve for fire fighting over the bow. The box is part of the ABS molding, this I cut into the front making sure it was a good fit, and then I used body filler inside to fix it in place, and then covered the outer edge with plastic filler, which will be sanded flat when I sand down the wheelhouse.

I have also decide that I will build as much inside detail of the wheelhouse as I can, so the first thing I did was cut a piece of 2mm ply to the shape of the wheelhouse base. Now as the side wheelhouse detail box moldings project 20mm inside the wheelhouse, I have had to make cut outs in the floor, so as they will fit flush, I will up date this information later as it is going to take some time to make and fit out.




Wheelhouse floor
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Wheelhouse interior
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As you can see by the photos the wheelhouse interior is well on its way,I am awaiting the seats,which I am due to pick up from Adrian from Speedline models on Saturday,at the Beale Park Model Boat show.




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On thing I will say is, you have got to watch these crewmen,when thay are made up they run around the workshop getting into all sorts!!!!




Interior fitting Out.
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Well the interior is almost complete with only a small amount of work to finish off to how I want it, I still have the fold down seat to make which goes on the rear door bulkhead and finish off the side panel where the helmsman sits plus make up the arm rests for the seats, the wife is making me the seat belts, these will be in red and not black so they show up when you look through any of the windows, as all the interior at the front is all in black.
To finish it all off I have some decals, which are for instruments, plus a fiber optic bulb unit which will light up the control panels, giving me 50 green lights!!!!




It comes out in one unit!
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Looking thought the side,should look great when its all painted I will also be fitting two crewmen inside sitting at the front seats.



Hull Stern Detail.
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Hull Stern Detail.

The trim tabs are a kit on there own, I has taken me 6.5 hours to make all three plus the exhaust outlets, the assembly is quite straight forward but it is a job not to be rushed.

I have soldered the hinges on the trim tabs, but I then found it much easier to super-glue the other components, also found it very useful to have a magi lamp, make lining thing up much better.

There are two resin castings that need to be fitted in the stern for the exhaust to go through, I marked out the stern from the R.N.L.I.drawing then fitted theses in place with car body filler on the inside.

For the exhaust outlets you will need to get a length of K&S tubing part number 144 size 21/32 this is spot for size, all I did was cut it in half with a small angle, then soldered up the other end, I then made up the exhaust flap with the bracket to solder on to the tube, fitted a 14 BA brass nut and bolt and the job was done.




Exhaust outlet rear
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Rear of exhaust tube,with inlet from water pumps.



Exhaust outlet Front.
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Finished exhaust outlet with working flap.


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